[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"post-6964024902718325248":3,"cmt-6964024902718325248":57,"cfg-detail":105},{"code":4,"message":5,"data":6},200,"success",{"post":7,"image_urls":21,"original_image_urls":23,"image_ids":25,"inline_images":27,"user":52,"best_comments":56,"is_author":55},{"id":8,"user_id":9,"post_type":10,"parent_id":11,"root_id":8,"content":12,"image_count":13,"reward_points":10,"category_id":13,"status":10,"visibility":14,"is_top":10,"is_hot":10,"created_at":15,"updated_at":16,"comment_count":17,"like_count":17,"collect_count":10,"view_count":18,"best_comment_1_id":19,"best_comment_2_id":11,"best_comment_3_id":11,"best_comment_updated_at":20,"end_time":11,"extended_hours":11,"total_points":11,"reward_status":11},"6964024902718325248","2351876944337830401",0,null,"去西藏的前一天，孩子瘸了\n女儿初中毕业，我奖励了她一次西藏之旅——跟一个观虫团，去虫多鸟多的西藏墨脱。她对这次旅行寄予厚望，早就做好了攻略，提前研习了藏南的昆虫和鸟类。出发前一晚甚至激动得睡不着觉。\n\n没想到乐极生悲。转机在成都停留一晚，需要取出行李，第二天重新托运。孩子从转盘上拎行李的时候抻到了腿筋，右腿迈步就痛，直接从活蹦乱跳变成了“小瘸子”。\n\n她之前旅游或研学都自己料理过箱子，从没出过问题。细究原因，这次抻到，跟箱子里那两本砖头重的《中国鸟类图鉴》和《中国昆虫图鉴》有很大关系。她很后悔，哇哇大哭，哭自己的“出师未捷身先伤”。然而事已至此，接下来的问题是如何面对一次注定不完美的旅程。\n\n我们去成都的医院开了膏药，医生嘱咐少走动、多休息。可这是在西藏，少走动几乎等于白来。\n\n一瘸一拐上了飞往林芝的飞机，女儿一直哭丧着脸，弄得我心情也很沉重。直到她忽然发出一声惊呼：“雪山！”我顺着她的目光望向舷窗外，银白色的尖顶从云层中刺出来，那可能是海拔七千多米的南迦巴瓦峰。那一刻，我们忽然觉得心境开阔了一些。这大概就是大山大水对普通人的意义。它不说话，但你能感受到某种宏大的非人类的存在，自己的那点委屈忽然就变小了。\n[img:9269867909286461952]\n林芝机场云雾缭绕。海拔虽然不到三千，却已经让人心慌气短。去波密的路上，海拔逐步攀升，最高到四千多，又下降到两千多。孩子气喘，我耳鸣，但终究都没有吸氧。\n\n318国道上风光无限，让人见而忘忧。雅鲁藏布江的支流帕隆藏布在高海拔处湍急而浑浊，带着粗犷的力度。车沿着它流淌的方向疾驰，看着它越来越浩大，水势却渐渐平缓下来，竟显出几分秀丽。沿途石壁逼人，覆盖着不同于北方的植被，山色有和河流不同的美。那一刻我理解了那句“此生必驾318”。\n\n中科院墨脱中心附近拍的雅鲁藏布江\n\n对女儿来说，高反其实是小事，最多不过难受一阵。她最终的痛点依然是那条迈不开的腿。果然，第二天的云杉林徒步，她瘸着没法坚持，只能中途折返，没有看到景区深处的湖景，懊恼得又哭了鼻子。观虫团领队是个身高一米九的汉子，常年混迹丛林野外，晒得黝黑。铁塔似的一个人，对着我们家的“林妹妹”说了句大实话：“又不是只能出来这么一回，中国的好地方还多着呢，以后可以慢慢看。”小孩觉得很有道理。\n[img:9269867909382930944]\n经过扎墨公路进入墨脱。扎墨公路从波密到墨脱县城，一百多公里的路，断断续续修了近四十年才正式通车。途中要穿越隧道，翻越高山，海拔落差超过三千米。夏天这条路上，塌方、泥石流是家常便饭，我们开过去，沿路看到不少需要维修的点。\n\n扎墨公路\n\n这是一条从来都不完美，却很重要也很实用的路。女儿看着这些若有所感，我猜她大概在想：一条路建了这么多年，现在还要一直修修补补，我的腿疼几天好像也不算什么。\n\n随着海拔的变化，车窗外景色不断变换：远处的冰川瀑布，近处的针叶林，逐步变成了绿油油的大树，再就是巨大的芭蕉树。据说芭蕉与雪山同框，是墨脱独有的景色。女儿的双眼应接不暇，倒是没空再烦恼自己不完美的旅程了。我对她说：“其实有时候‘我在场、我感受得到’，就已经是极好的了。”\n\n芭蕉树和南迦巴瓦峰\n\n没想到我们的观虫团还挺高大上的，我们集体下榻中科院的墨脱中心，第二天就听了中科院专家的报告。女儿终于从科学道理上弄懂了那句：“世界只有一个墨脱，墨脱拥有整个世界。”\n\n[img:9269867909511381504]墨脱是地球上最北的热带雨林分布区，从海拔几百米的热带季雨林到四千多米的雪山，浓缩了从热带到寒带的完整植被。全世界可能再也找不到第二个这样的地方。我告诉女儿：“有些地方，浅尝一下就有无穷韵味，不需要用双腿丈量每一寸土地。”她说：“不用一直劝我，我自己能想开。”\n\n去仁青崩寺转山时，女儿的情绪已经慢慢平静下来。转山一圈好几公里，我们跟不上大部队，便在林中漫步，自己观鸟、抓虫。藏南的蝗虫和内地很不一样，浑身绿油油的，腿是鲜艳的红色和黄色，配色可圈可点。丽色奇鹛似乎只是这里的菜鸟，我们听着鸟夫妻俩互相吆喝，找了半天终于拍到了他俩。不必追进度、跟节奏，有时候反而更能找到让自己舒服的节奏。\n\n墨脱扇角金龟\n\n西藏王三栉牛\n\n角蝉\n\n中科院的专家刚好是个观鸟人，常驻墨脱，这里的五百多种鸟大半被他收入镜头。他向女儿面授机宜：墨脱下午没什么鸟，都是早上七八点。拍鸟不用进林子，要在林子外围，等着小鸟飞出‘窗外’抓拍。\n\n于是，接下来两天，我们开始了“起早贪黑”的生活。\n\n[img:9269867909634589184]中科院墨脱中心旁的大路就是宝藏鸟点。清晨，相思鸟和扇尾莺在林子边缘穿梭。纹背捕蛛鸟停在枝头梳毛，绿鸠圆滚滚的，边摇尾巴边咕咕叫，像个大青芒果。茶胸斑啄木鸟在林间飞来飞去，背后花纹很像斑马。小孩拍到了几种藏地特有鸟，爽爽加新了。\n\n银耳相思鸟\n\n茶胸斑啄木鸟\n\n每天晚上跟团观虫。领队之前在墨脱转了很多次，车开了五千多公里，把这片的虫点摸得一清二楚。我们坐享其成，大饱眼福。墨脱的虫很有特点，连大蚊都是艳丽的，各种花里胡哨的金龟子且不说，各型各款的竹节虫一大堆，甚至成了大家都看不上眼的“菜虫”了。\n\n唯一的遗憾是，为了怕植物疯长覆盖路面，影响交通安全，很多公路两侧都喷了百草枯，发展经济和环保如何兼顾，这里的人大概还在探索。\n\n中科院墨脱中心附近鸟类生境\n\n女儿是不愿错过任何一次行动的，自创“一瘸一拐不疼走法”，把压力给到健康的左腿，带动右腿前行，瘸着瘸着也能跟上队伍。观虫团的行程安排合理，景点和虫点搭配，劳逸结合，徒步距离不算长，速度也可控，我们基本没拖后腿。领队归纳：她虽然瘸，一点也没少折腾。\n\n住处就在雅鲁藏布江果果塘大拐弯附近，墨脱的夜晚，抬头是繁星，耳畔是虫鸣和雅江的浪涛，人生难得如此浪漫。\n\n[img:9269867909757272576]果果塘大拐弯观景台上的蛱蝶\n\n墨脱格林村是昆虫观测点，也是鸟圈广为人知的鸟点，成了女儿心心念念的地方。七月中下旬因为泥石流冲坏了通路上一座桥，通往格林村的道路封闭了一个多星期，上一期观虫团遗憾未能进入。倒是我们这期刚好赶上通车，小孩觉得这是命运给她的补偿。旅行就是这样，柳暗花明又一村。\n\n路虽然通了，却很难走。颠簸了三个小时，我们终于到达了这个有着童话般名字的村落。刚入住，墨脱就用一场4.8级地震迎接了我们。第二天又来了一个4.2级的。当地人对此安之若素，问了问才知道，原来格林村曾是一个被地震毁掉的村庄。老村址就在不远处，如今只剩残垣断壁，现在这个村是重建的。\n\n第二天清晨，海拔七千多米、被称为“羞女峰”的南迦巴瓦居然赏脸露出了真容，让在观景台守候的我们大呼过瘾。当地人说，一年里它露脸的天数屈指可数，我们是一群幸运儿。孩子说：“住在这里的人才真幸运，总能看到这么美的景色。”他们真的幸运吗？想到刚刚才感受过的地震，还有来时那些被泥石流冲坏的路面，我不由得想，也许每一处极致的风景背后，都是极限的生存条件。\n\n[img:9269867909936054784]从格林村拍摄的南迦巴瓦峰\n\n接下来的行程让女儿对当地人的生活有了更深的感受。我们去了墨脱甘登乡，一个边境乡。这个乡是整体搬迁过来的，主要就是因为之前的生存环境太恶劣了，不光山高路险、还经常有泥石流和山体滑坡。秘境，有时候意味着恶劣的自然环境，还有与现代化的遥远距离。\n\n参观甘登乡的展厅时，听了这个大搬家的故事，唤醒了女儿追剧的记忆：“我知道，我看过《山海情》，甘登乡也挺像的。”墨脱全县2001年才开始建设电网，2013年才通公路。即便开始接触现代生活，像甘登乡这样的边境乡村，依然被自然灾害困住了发展的步伐。整体搬迁，是不得已，也是浴火重生。女儿感慨：对我们来说是个景点，对生活在这里的人，那可是家。她有些担心：“那现在村民们的生活有没有好一点？”展馆的解说员姐姐笑了：“放心，现在过得都挺好。”\n\n在甘登乡，孩子们还参观了兰花的科研培育基地。女儿说：“这个我也知道，兰花就相当于闽宁村的蘑菇。”我们都觉得，今后来墨脱的人会越来越多，甘登乡的兰花大概也会走出去。此时，女儿忽然有些遗憾起来：“如果来的人越来越多，秘境就不是秘境，净土也不是净土了。”我告诉她我的想法：“没有人有资格让别人不去过更好的生活，就为了给他们守住什么净土。”她点点头。\n[img:9269867910082331136]\n傍晚的雅鲁藏布江\n\n吃饭的地方是个农家乐，店主从四川过来，祖上可能是“湖广填四川”的移民。迁徙和垦殖，是一个家族的传承。饭店门口有一条宽阔的路，背后是南迦巴瓦峰山脉，面前大约两公里处就是非法麦克马洪线。\n\n甘登乡处处悬挂着五星红旗。女儿说：“在国家的边境看到国旗，和在学校升旗，感受是不同的。”在这里，可能更有“这里是中国，我是中国人”的实感。\n\n甘登村的红旗\n\n山川河流、生存，还有家国，面对这些宏大或厚重的东西，人那点自己的烦恼，忽然就变成小事了。女儿腿还远没有好利索，但她似乎不那么在意了。\n\n我自己也是，世事纷扰，年近半百，常常觉得活着累，有时候想“死了也行”。但第二天爬起来，还是接着死皮赖脸地活着。活下去的动力之一大概就是：活着，才能见到一些美好的东西。\n\n对于女儿来说，她迟早要接受人生不完美、世界不完美，自己也不完美。我想，接受这些，不妨就从接受一次不完美的旅程开始吧。腿瘸了又怎样？雪山看见了，鸟加新了，地震经历了，边境的国旗记住了，这大概也算另类的完美旅程吧。\n[img:9269867910178800128]\n《少年新知》是《三联生活周刊》旗下的原创青少年杂志，我们的自我定位是人文思维启蒙。我们希望这本杂志能够陪伴青少年一起直面真实复杂的世界，让他们意识到，看待世界不是只有一种方法。\n\n自2020年6月创刊，《少年新知》已经推出64期杂志。我们的主题涉及时间、魔法、友谊、家庭、偶像、未知、运动、冬日、海洋、倾听与表达、网络生存、像侦探一样思考、历史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